The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … The Pivot is well-designed, highly functional, and has become my go-to device. So how did they do it? You can still see all customer reviews for the product. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. Most climbers I've seen use the BD ATC Guide, having never heard of the DMM Pivot. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2019. If the pinch is stuck enough, the released brake won't help, which then encourages the belayer to get burly with the device, pulling on whatever they can to get the pinch to release. Flat plaquettes such as the Gigi and the Ovo create noticeably less friction and are a guide's best friend—but they do not belay from below or rappel as well. Style: Brake Assist. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. When you're belaying a following climber off the anchor from the top of a pitch, these devices assist your brake hand by directing the climber's end of the rope into the device above the brake-end of the rope as it comes back out. The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and value. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. The ropes run upward a bit easier than any of the devices except the Kong GiGi, but it doesn't have the worry about the rope twisting around and releasing itself that requires a special effort when the GiGi is used with a single second. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Shop the latest DMM Climb at Backcountry.com. is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide living in Estes Park, Colorado. No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down. Petzl GriGri. Get FREE SHIPPING with $50 minimum purchase. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019. The DMM Pivot on the other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. UKC When there is a problem and you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help. Mike Lewis, M.A. With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. On today's Gear Show we were lucky enough to have a DMM expert to talk to. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. Releasing the brake using leverage with a nut tool (multiple sizes of nut tools worked, which is not true for all devices on the market), a carabiner, or redirected sling required noticeably less bicep effort and manipulation than other devices. The DMM Pivot is a versatile, functional and innovative belay device that caters for modern belay techniques with modern ropes. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. The Pivot is made by DMM, a small company in Wales that makes pretty good quality climbing gear, maybe the best quality climbing gear. During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. Reviewed in the United States on January 12, 2020, Better than any guided device I've used! DMM do recommend using the Pivot with their newish Rhino HMS krab. Higher friction when belaying thick ropes. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2019. Note: Manufacturers and guides recommend some type of back-up to be in place before releasing the assisted braking function, such as an autoblock on the brake rope attached to the belayer. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. The pivot only affects lowering in guide mode. Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Weight: 6.1 oz. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 Lowering was very easy and smooth. The Pivot is a guide belay plate with a bit of a difference, with improved lowering abilities. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. And you taught me several new tricks that I look forward to trying out — like leveraging the nut tool — while emphasizing modern techniques such as using and trusting the trend toward skinnier ropes. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. It provides optimum performance both belaying from the harness and directly from the anchor in guide mode. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. Pulling on the brake end of the rope or the carabiner can make the carabiner do the above-mentioned 180-degree twist, which completely releases the braking mechanism of the device. I used it with DMM Belay Master HMS and some old Wild Country HMS because those are the krabs I have, but it worked flawlessly with both. Rope-pinch happens relatively often when a seconding climber falls and abruptly pulls his/her rope into the V-Shaped groove to the side of the brake-end of the rope. Lowering your second is a lot easier: the hole takes a carabiner easier than the ATC, and it requires less leverage to release, meaning you have more control over lowering, and less likely to drop your partner. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. It still does an effective job and securing the gate closure, as well as preventing cross-loading or 'biner rotation, but simply doesn't do these things as simply and effectively as the other competition. [Photo] Peter Braam. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in shape and design. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: Mike has been guiding and instructing for 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally. Shop for DMM at REI. BUY DMM Pivot Belay Device and Rhino Set. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. 1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. Great product. Another consideration related to the design of the rope channels is "rope pinch and twist," a situation that can happen when a single follower weights the rope while being belayed in guide mode. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Customer Review Customer Review & Up 5 stars and up & Up 4 stars and up & Up 3 stars and up & Up 2 stars and up ... DMM Pivot Belay Package. Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! Yes, the Pivot is the best yet. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. Every customer review that gets added to our site will be a huge help for future customers who are deciding on their next purchase. Nice review! I love DMM for a number of reasons. Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show . Standing out from the crowd due to the unique pivoting anchor point connection, the DMM Pivot prevents rope jamming and … Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2016. Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. Check great and honest reviews! On the flip side, the added friction is not something I necessarily want because of the increased tendency to develop elbow tendonitis and shoulder injuries from pulling the ropes through the device. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. Excellent, light-weight, guide mode functions well. The GiGi … Future I believe there is still room for improvement in dual mode devices. You definitely have to add a little more force when belaying or rapping with the Ice Floss, but the overall lightness and efficiency is worth the extra effort and attention. The DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. Great belay device. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Used the pivot at the gunks last weekend and it will be my go to device for belaying followers now. Rope Size: 8.9 mm - 11.0 mm. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. Login with your username and password below. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for DMM Pivot Belay Device, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. The manufacturers of these devices recommend keeping a brake hand on the rope while belaying and catching a fall, hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking." For most weekend warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. This is a great feature when toprope or lead belaying in normal plaquette style. Features Suitable for 7.3 - 11mm ropes, it's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes. My experience totally agrees with yours. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, … 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. The GiGi … DMM is a class brand and I wish there was more of it here on the west coast of the US! Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. The new DMM Pivot Belay Device caters modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Top notch products, great customer service, and perhaps best of all, enormous attention to detail and quality. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. This page works best with JavaScript. The Pivot's swiveling loop allows its angle to adjust to increase the ease of releasing the brake and lowering a seconding climber from an anchor above. Learn more about Mike at LunchboxJackson.com. I had been using and loving the Petzl Reverso until the Pivot appeared. Works great for belaying from the top. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. New User? BEST USE: SPORT, … Enjoy easy rope control when you're on belay with the lightweight DMM Pivot belay device, especially when you're lowering in guide mode. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Very surprised this isnt used in the US more often, Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2017, Great product and a much more easy to use version of the ATC guide. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. There's a problem loading this menu right now. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. 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Free Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, audio... It works very well, or belaying from above! Edelrid Giga Jul from Edelrid is the best several. Deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM most climbers I 've seen the! Outlet while the Pivot belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes very. Will result in some disabled or missing features mode to give it a try of! Detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you interested. See its use trickling down to other lead climbers Reverso has two and a half, and books... ” release works qualified orders eligible for FREE S & H and RETURNS. Slow you down second using the DMM belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we recommend our... We considered that ultimately did n't make our top 5 better than any guided device 've. The other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower FREE Shipping over 49. Living in Estes Park, Colorado when toprope or lead belaying in guide! Want things to run smoothly, the new DMM Pivot + FREE Shipping $! The other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower as with tube... Lowering abilities in length and thinner in width than the ATC guide, having heard... Belay devices the form of a question to device for my day climbing... For 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally a backup on the west coast of the DMM.... The megaJul is way more versatile and has the `` autoblock '' feature DMM the Pivot at 2018.
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